The Three Cities

“See Naples and die!” is how the famous saying goes. Bit extreme that isn’t it? And Naples aint so special, really, if we’re honest. I mean it’s OK! It has a nice bay and a castle but it’s certainly no Florence, or Rome, or Venice – and they’re all in the same country! So, if you did shuffle off this mortal coil after Naples you should be gutted because you’d miss so many other wonderful places.

Like Malta’s historic “Three Cities”, (you knew we’d get there in the end!) which are also jointly known as The Cottonera. This trio of ancient metropoli, or is it metropolises, are all situated a very long stone’s throw from Vallettaacross the harbour and are packed with fine architecture, local folklore and history.

The three cities are namely, Birgu, Bormla and Isla and they all sit across the Grand Harbour due south of Valletta. If you lump all three of them together on a map, Bormla resembles a rabbit’s head with Isla being the right ear and Birgu the left. That's as the rabbit looks at you, not that it does. D'ya see it? No ... just me with the rabbit thing then? 

What helps to make these places so special is the character of their inhabitants - who all have fluffy tails! Just joking! But seriously, they have a reputation for being jovial and helpful, outgoing and proud of the historical and cultural heritage among which they exist every day of their lives. And, in a way, it’s not surprising.

To attempt to explain (without any more bunny references) - imagine waking up and taking your first coffee of the day opposite the views of the palaces and auberges of the legendary Knights of Malta, those most noble of men who first chose these places as their home on the island before they even thought of let alone built Valletta.

As you step out of your front door, the domineering skylines of churches and robust fortifications that defended every people who came to the island are all around you.

Then, as you walk to your local shop there is history at every step you take in Birgu, Bormla and Isla - which are also known, officially and in tribute to their role in defeating the Ottoman Empire in the Great Siege of 1565, as Vittoriosa, Cospicua and Senglea.


Many Maltese believe that for too many years these momentous cities were almost unforgivably left to rot away in spite of their history. The early tourism drive chose instead to concentrate on the northern sandy beaches, new hotels and holiday complexes and the shopping areas of Valletta, Sliema and Mdina. As a result, The Three Cities very rarely got a mention on the colourful brochures … until recently that is, when the area finally got its chance… and grasped it!

Today, the Cottonera is probably the fastest-growing tourist area in Malta. A major rehabilitation exercise has seen the creation of new, specialised tours, the opening of excellent new restaurants and museums plus a splendid yacht marina and a full calendar of events that varies from re-enactment shows to candlelight evenings that emphasise the beauty of their narrow, winding streets.

From the charming village of Kalkara, a suburb of the Three Cities, you’ll get breath-taking views of the bastioned cities and also of Valletta from across the water. It’s a stunning sight and no-one will be asking you to die afterwards!

Getting to the Three Cities is relatively easy by car but do consult a map to be sure. There are boat tours from the Waterfront in Valletta that will give you some excellent views of them or you could hire a dghajsa - water taxi.

There are good bus services to the Cottonera too and it only takes a few minutes to ride around the bay from the capital.